October 22, 2007
I got my Ravelry invite last week. I’m on there as, of course, sosoclever.
I started entering stuff over the weekend. Having a register of all the needles I have seems like a handy thing. My problem is what do I do about the interchangeable set I have? Enter each and every one? And how? I have 12″, 14″, 16″, and 21″ cables. If I add 4″ for the points (which are longer than 2″ each), that gives me 16″, 18″, 20″, 25″. 25″? I already had to put my 12″ straight needles on the 10″ line. (No, I don’t expect them to accommodate every possible needle, that’s why they have the comments section.) I’d like to be able to just say I have this set, which includes needle sizes 2 through 15 (I think), with these length cables, but there’s no place to put anything like that.
As long as I’m on the subject of interchangeable sets, if anyone happens to read this and has an opinion on Denise needles, or the KnitPicks set, or any others, please let me know what it is. My biggest problem with interchangeable sets is that I’m an over-tightener. A couple of my needle tips have this little flange at the ends now because I screw them in too tightly. If there is a set out there that fits together some other way (I think Densie does?), I’d really like to try them.
October 21, 2007
Okay. I’ve done the heel flap and turned the heel, and picked up my stitches.
I counted my rows on the heel flap as I did them this time, so there’d be no mixup. I got to fifteen (counting slipped stitch rows only), and compared it to the finished sock. They seemed to be the same length. so I tried counting the rows on the finished sock, and came up with fifteen, again and again. So I left the new one at fifteen and picked up my stitches.
I came up with sixteen on the one side and seventeen on the other. What the heck am I doing wrong? The only thing I can think of is if I’m picking up that little stitch at the start of the heel flap. I dunno.
The finished sock seems fine, so I’m ignoring the seventeenth stitch again, and I’ll just finish this one the same.
October 15, 2007
I am almost finished with Thing One’s Hallowe’en costume. It’s close enough that I don’t want to take it outside and walk with it, because I’d probably be finished long before my walk was over, and then I’d be trying to cast on for something else while walking, and I’m sure that’d end in tears.
So, I’m starting the mate to the finished sock. I should have noted before that I’m working on size four needles, and that I used the “Old Norwegian Cast-On” from the book. I like this cast-on method, but I’m sure I’d have killed myself trying to do it while walking.
I just hope it doesn’t start raining before I finish my walk.
October 10, 2007
I’m done with the tunic! Well, except for weaving in ends, and trying it on Thing One.
I discovered that when I have only nine stitches on the needle, and I’m doing garter stitch back and forth, my rows are much larger. Oops. Luckily, I was able to duplicate the effect on all four shoulder straps. I joined the shoulders with kitchener stitch. Everything looks fine (except for the larger gauge on the shoulders) and matches up where it should.
I am on the second contrast color in the collar piece. That will probably be finished quickly, since I won’t be working on the tunic during my lunch hour anymore. I still haven’t found my copy of The Magic Loop, so I’ll probably wait to start the bracelets until I visit my mom. That might be this weekend. If I have the collar done before then, though, I can start on the other sock.
October 7, 2007
If I were knitting instead of typing I might be done by now. With the tunic, anyway.
Okay, maybe not quite.
I did — thankfully — think to check the size of the armholes and see if I thought they’d be big enough for her. I decided that to keep the pattern close to the original, I’d better make them an inch longer, and make neckline half an inch lower. I think that should do it.
Overall, it will be 31″ long. 23″ from casting on to the beginning of the armhole, then 5″ to the neckline, and 3″ to the top of the shoulders. (Original pattern measurements are 28″ long. 21″ to armhole, 4 1/2″ to neckline, 2 1/2″ to top.)
October 6, 2007
We went to Jo-Ann’s today to get stuff for Thing Two’s costume (a skeleton in a cape), and, of course, I had to look at their yarn, too. They had these kits for making “Felted Knit & Crochet Purses,” that were originally $20, but were clearanced for $7.97, with 8 1/2 ounces of variegated wool. I have no interest in making the purse, but hey! Four skeins of wool for $8! I got two. One is orange-purple-blue, and the other is blue-grey-green. I’m pretty sure I’ll figure out something to make with them.
Thing One’s costume is coming along, but I haven’t made any more changes, or had any more problems. The errata section on Vickie Howell’s website hasn’t been updated, and I haven’t received any e-mail from them, either. I have discovered that my copy of The Magic Loop has gone missing. I was going to do the bracelets with that method instead of on dpns. It has to be around somewhere, though. If nothing else, I’ll borrow my mom’s copy.
October 3, 2007
Wherein our humble narrator changes the pattern yet again to make it more to her liking.
K3tog is really a bitch to do, particularly when your carpal tunnel syndome is acting up. I don’t remember the proper notation for this, but instead of K3tog, I’m going to slip a stitch purlwise, K2tog, then move the slipped stitch over the two just knitted together. Basically the same effect, but doesn’t make my thumb feel like it’s being ripped out of my wrist. In fact, I think it might look better, too.
October 2, 2007
Wow, that was fast.
Working with Shine is like petting a kitten. It’s really, really soft.
I think Mom is right and it’s probably five stitches to the inch. I cast on 28 stitches to try it, and that’s what I’m coming up with, and it looks about right.
The instructions for row 2 of the pattern are confusing to read. “P2, repeat [yo, slip yo of previous row purl-wise (new yo lies over top of previous row’s yo), p1]. When you do it, however, it makes sense. Actually, it makes sense to slip the yo from the previous row with the yarn in front, then bring the yarn over and purl the next stitch. It all goes in one motion, and it’s feels kind of neat to do. Then what you wind up with after doing the four row repeat is knitting that looks like crochet.
Anyway, that’s what I’m going to do with it, regardless of what they wind up saying for the gauge in the errata listing.
October 2, 2007
I did get the yarn from KnitPicks yesterday. I fished out my size 5 circs to start a gauge swatch and noticed that the gauge for the collar says “8 stitches = 4 inches in pattern stitch.” Okay, I’m pretty sure there’s no way you’re going to get only two stitches per inch with a worsted weight yarn on size five needles, not without it being a very interesting pattern. Also, there’s no real “pattern stitch” that I can find. You start off with four rows of one thing, then it switches to decreasing rounds. That’s not all, either. In row five, it says to “k2tog, yo, k3tog, yo, repeat from *.” There’s no *. It does say how many stitches you should have after doing this row, so it was easy enough to figure out that the asterisk belongs before the k2tog.
Anyway, I went to Vickie Howell’s website, found the e-mail address to send her errata, and did so. Hopefully she’ll get the corrections posted soon.
While I’m typing this, my mom called and said she thinks it should be 5 stitches per inch, based on the number of stitches left and how long it’s supposed to be. I think I’ll work with that and see how it goes. She also noticed there are yarn overs on the purl side, and we’re both sure you should do those differently, but we don’t know how. She’s going to see if she can figure it out. Any suggestions?