Divide stitches evenly . . . sure, whatever you say

When I started the second legwarmer, I divided the 58 stitches between four needles, with 14 on two needles and 15 on the other two. Then I started the cables, and having them divided like that meant that I was doing a cable across two needles, and it really looked like crap, so I adjusted them. I put 10 stitches on the first needle, then I had 19 on the second, 14 on the third, and 15 on the last. It was a little uneven, but it worked.

Now that I’m well into the lozenge pattern, it’s no longer working. I haven’t finished increasing, but soon I will have (if I leave things as they are) 41 stitches on that last needle. I think this might be the reason I’m having trouble keeping the needles in line. It’s getting way too uneven. I am thinking about moving stitches around.

One problem with this is that I don’t really want to have a pattern break. The lozenge pattern, at its widest, is 30 stitches (up from 4 in the original open twist). If I put the lozenge stitches only on one needle, that would leave me with 54 stitches to divide evenly on the other three needles, which would be 18 stitches each. That’s still pretty uneven, but it might work. It means I wouldn’t have my one “selvedge” stitch to either side of the lozenge, which might induce laddering, which I don’t want. There is a 4 stitch copy of the open twist on either side of the lozenge. It doesn’t get involved with the other cabling inside the lozenge. It’s simply a frame. If I put those on the other needles, that would drop it to 22 stitches for the lozenge, with a “selvedge” on each side, because there’s a purl stitch on each end (although the two open twist sections would not have a selvedge anymore). Then I would have 62 stitches to divide on the other needles, giving me 21, 20, and 21. That wouldn’t be bad at all.

I would have to actually start using a marker for the end of the round, because I’d have to move the end of the round to the middle of a needle. Well, maybe not. Using a marker, that is. (I usually use the tail from casting on as my round-end marker, because it’s already there, and I don’t have to worry about it falling off and my good spouse teasing me for leaving it on the kitchen floor again.) Since there are several stitches worth of reverse stockinette between the cable patterns, when I get to the point where I need to worry about where my round starts, I can just count eleven stitches back from the start of the Hauser model on the front of the legwarmer, or ten stitches forward from the Hauser model on the back (after finishing the lozenge pattern, you do the Hauser model for a few repeats).

Okay, I’ve convinced myself. I will split the open twists from the rest of the lozenge, and hope that doesn’t give me a new ladder problem, and then I’ll divide the other stitches onto the needles as 21, 20, 21. Of course, I’ll have to do some more finagling when I get to the end of the lozenge, but I imagine at that point it will mostly be a matter of putting things back almost like they were.

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2 Comments to “Divide stitches evenly . . . sure, whatever you say”

  1. Get rid of the double points and switch to using two circulars. I generally use two 24″ Addi Turbos. Don’t know if you are in Ravelery, But I’m “Lzyknitter” and just posted a Watermelon Baby Hat done this way. You can see on Fliker too from my blog.

    • I’ve done most of the first legwarmer on two circs, and I had ladders. I never get ladders when I use two circs. So I’m doing this one on the dpns, and it’s mostly going well. I actually like using dpns, if for nothing else than the looks I get.;-)

      Thanks for the advice, though.

      I am “sosoclever” on Ravelry.

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